Bacchus

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Bacchus, named after the Roman god of wine, is situated in a bit of a bar void between Glasgow's centre and the Merchant City. That's maybe why it draws a mixed crowd, with post-work drinkers midweek giving way to pre-clubbers at weekends, when DJs are a feature. Flashes of colour in the form of red chairs and a bright fruit machine offset the sleekness of the interior's dark wood, cream leather benches and subtle lighting from lampshades resembling upside-down ice-cream cones. The Mediterranean-inspired food is unpretentious. A generous layer of fresh roasted peppers and aubergines, topped with creamy grilled feta, lifts the bruschetta beyond its modest price tag, while potato boats – crispy potato skins loaded with bacon and melted cheese – make for a satisfying comfort dish. Mains are equally uncomplicated. Penne pasta comes covered in a thick sauce of sun-dried tomatoes and basil with chunks of chicken, while the home-made vegetable lasagne is a well-balanced mixture of pasta, vegetables and creamy sauce served with crunchy garlic bread and salad. Puddings – a synthetic-tasting chocolate fudge cake, for example – are rather less homey but by that point, Bacchus may already be working his magic.

• High point: Hearty food in a trendy setting
• Low point: Disappointing puddings