Bar Roma

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Nearly 30 years on, Bar Roma still knows how to throw a party and remains a popular venue for West End work functions and lively get-togethers. With its sprawling, brightly lit dining area and pulsing pop music, it's by no means intimate, and newcomers baulking at the boisterous atmosphere would be advised to stick to the old adage of 'when in Rome' and simply join in. Convivial staff buzz from table to table, delivering dishes with a flourish and happily helping diners navigate the lengthy, if overpriced, international wine list. The equally extensive menu features hot and cold antipasti, a gamut of meat, seafood and vegetarian mains, and a whopping 50 pasta and pizza dishes prepared traditionally or with a twist. The main of veal Scaloppina with creamy mushroom sauce, peppery greens and chunky chips is substantial but steeply priced at £16.95, whereas the Stagioni pizza, loaded with ham, spicy sausage, olives and artichokes, is colourful, deliciously crispy and half the price. The starters are fairly forgettable – the deep-fried squid is saved only by its chilli dip accompaniment, and the garlicky mushrooms in breadcrumbs fail to make any impression. But dessert devotees will enjoy the dolci menu's wide range of classic treats, including tiramisu and pannacotta and rhubarb ice-cream.

• High point: Varied, value-for-money pizza/pasta options
• Low point: The lively atmosphere isn't for everyone