Il Castello

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Sitting in the shadow of the castle after which it is named, and in a prime spot to capture theatre and cinema goers, ll Castello has a steady flow of passing trade. The compact, split-level 70-cover venue, decorated with moody, black and white photographs of Italian landmarks, also enjoys a regular clientele, who frequent it as much for its location as its food. A busy menu features several original dishes, with starters such as funghi all'Amaretto (mushrooms sautéed in liqueur), fish dishes that include a flavour-packed gamberoni della casa – king prawns cooked in a well balanced garlic and white wine sauce – and meat dishes featuring imaginative combinations such as a breadcrumbed veal escalope, topped with aubergine, tomato sauce and mozzarella. Given the chef's innovative thinking, it is disappointing that all the mains come with a limp salad. However, the biggest let-down is a dessert menu comprising a choice of pre-packaged puddings and ice-creams. And while the tiramisu is an enjoyable conclusion to the meal, an Italian restaurant with no home-made sweets is as rare as one with poor coffee. Fortunately, Il Castello redeems itself with a powerful espresso that ensures any visit ends on a high.

• High point: Extensive menu offering imaginative combinations
• Low point: Pre-packaged desserts