Visit La Garrigue, arguably the most authentic French restaurant in town and be transported into the Languedoc region of France. Enjoy the food, sample the 'Terroir wines' and the warm service. Winner 'Les Routiers Guide; Scottish restaurant of the year'.

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £13.50 (set lunch)
   £19 (evening meal)
• House wine: £16.95 per bottle

• High point: Excellent sourcing of ingredients
• Low point: Let down by under-seasoning
• Food served: Mon-Fri 7-10am, noon-2.30pm, 6-10.45pm; Sat/Sun 8-10.30am, noon-2.30pm, 6-10.45pm
• Bar open: 9am-1am
• Private dining: Up to 80 covers
• No. overnight rooms: 100
• Open since: 1994
• Also offers: Childrens portions, Childrens high chairs, Wheelchair access

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

Bottles of Sicilian olive oil from the superb Planetta winery adorn the tables in this boutique hotel's restaurant, emphasising Malmaison's belief in quality ingredients. Commendably, this extends to a dedicated set-price menu, available during the week and consisting of dishes made from impeccable local produce. While keeping these offerings simple is sensible, a bit more variety in the mains would not go amiss; the unaccompanied salmon kedgeree or spinach and goat's cheese gnocchi might be better as starters. Also, a tendency to under-season does not do the ingredients justice. However, a decadently rich Valrhona chocolate tart offset by sharp yet honeyed blossom ice-cream excuses a lot. A longer, pricier à la carte menu features updated classics such as a braised lamb's shoulder shepherd's pie or truffle and mascarpone macaroni cheese. The substantial wine list may appear expensive, but the quality is maintained, and there is a good selection by the glass. The décor is rather masculine, although not unromantic (imagine a 21st century take on a 19th century gentlemen's club) and staff are obligingly cheerful, bringing more bread with which to soak up that fantastic olive oil. All in all, the ingredients are in place for a rather impressive brasserie.