Ubiquitous Chip

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

With its fish-filled pond, cobbled courtyard and abundant plant life tumbling from overhead beams, this is as close as one can get to dining in the elegant Victorian glasshouses of the Kibble Palace up the road. The theatrical al fresco atmosphere is given an edge of formality by the speedy staff, the insightful sommelier and, ultimately, the grown-up food from talented owner/chef Ronnie Clydesdale. A traditional opener of creamy Cullen skink makes way for more unusual taste combinations. Guinea fowl and pea sausage is so light and moist that it could almost be a mousse, and is served with a spaghetti of shredded beetroot and apple. This colourful plateful is further enhanced by a bright green pea sauce that is so packed with flavour it could be a dish on its own. A large wedge of Orkney organic salmon is served on a lime and vanilla mash – a cunning technique to bring citrus to the fish. A large selection of Scottish cheeses is just one demonstration of commitment to locality, and a dessert of blue cheese brûlée confirms the Chip's passion for introducing the tastebuds to new and unfamiliar flavours. For a slightly more traditional menu on a tighter budget, try the upstairs brasserie (See Bistros & Brasseries).

• High point: Intelligent food, incredible wine list
• Low point: Wobbly tables on cobbles