Budda

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Four years after opening in the West End, Budda still offers something of an ethnic cocoon. Gold statues line the bar, Balinese lanterns hang from rich orange walls and twisted wooden chairs create a sense of far-eastern intimacy overlooking the cobbles of Cresswell Lane. While other bars in the chain have westernised their outlook recently, the only thing noticably to have changed here is the menu. Dishes such as veggie haggis, Cullen skink, moules marinière and beef sirloin embrace Scottish produce – but there are still some oriental influences. The goat's cheese and red pepper spring roll combines crisp filo tubes of warm cheese perched on a nest of mango salsa, while two skewers of lightly spiced chicken kebabs are served with sweet pineapple jam. Main courses are substantial. Pan-fried salmon – a large fillet of slightly overcooked fish – comes on a huge heap of creamy risotto lightly salted by chunks of chorizo, while the fish and chips features a good portion of flaky white cod surrounded by light San Miguel batter. Such an international meal can be brought to a fitting end by puddings such as home-made banoffee pie, with creamy chunks of caramelised bananas, and a tangy lemon tart.

• High point: Friendly staff
• Low point: Grubby bathrooms