The Cabin

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Owner Denis Dwyer clearly loves his job. His warm welcome and his witty Irish banter make customers feel instantly relaxed and at home. As the sole front-of-house man, he flits around his small dining room taking orders, pouring wine and serving food – all with good humour and an inclusive attitude. He has reason to be confident, as the food he serves is appealing and well-executed. Thai meatballs are dark and sticky but freshened up with a tropical fruit salsa, making for a fragrant opener. Carrot soup is also given the tropical treatment with the addition of coconut milk, resulting in a delicious, silky combination. Sirloin steak comes with all the expected trimmings, including sautéed mushrooms and a layer of moss-green, thyme-infused Café de Paris butter. The seafood dish of the day might involve a 'rendezvous' of prawns, salmon and sea bass, all pan-fried in a herb enriched cream sauce which is delicate enough not to overpower the individual fish flavours. A rich chocolate brownie comes with very good vanilla ice-cream, and the cheese platter is a monster.

• High point: Personal service and carefully prepared food
• Low point: Menu needs a spell-checker