Manna

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Manna, another successful enterprise in restaurateur Alan Tomkin's empire (Gamba, Urban Grill, etc), is tucked away in the basement of a Bath Street townhouse. Despite such seclusion, this reincarnation of the former Papingo is clearly sought after: shoppers, couples (in various states of infatuation) and business types are typically found here. There is a safe quality to the interior, with dark wood, leather banquettes, mirrors, white-aproned staff and sparkling glassware, which all rather exudes an upscale cool that is borne out in the menu. Head chef Brian Smith brings together quality ingredients, including first-rate Buccleuch Estate meat, and an imaginative flair to produce interesting and well-presented dishes. A salad of char-grilled tiger prawns, delicately doused in a chilli and lime vinaigrette, while reasonably unchallenging is nevertheless prepared with care, while the fish soup provides unexpected excitement with rich undertones of ginger and herbs. Among main courses, the light sea bass fillet, gently infused with spring onion and lovingly encased in a paper parcel, is a popular choice. A more macho alternative may be the grilled sirloin: gargantuan, rosy in the middle and laden with caramelised shallots. Desserts tend towards the super-sweet end of the taste spectrum. For excellent value, try the two-course prix fixe lunch or pre-theatre options.

• High point: Comfortable chitter-chatter ambience
• Low point: Steep, slippery steps

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