City Merchant

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Celebrating its 20th birthday this year, the City Merchant restaurant offers its loyal clientele an extensive menu showcasing the very best of Scottish produce. Fresh lobster, oysters, platters of shellfish, venison served rare with rowan jelly, and T-bone steaks (up to 2lbs in weight) are the stars of the à la carte, while a specials board offers seasonal delights and often more exotic dishes (parrot fish for example). To begin, crunchy asparagus is smothered in a dill-flavoured hollandaise, while wobbling seared scallops are served with lightly seasoned spinach dumplings. The paper parcel of the halibut en papillote releases a lemon-scented steam cloud that clears to reveal moist chunks of white fish, creamy scallops and dainty pink prawns all sitting in a delicious puddle of garlic butter. Sticky pudding squares soaked in a rich toffee sauce with melting vanilla ice-cream make for a wholly satisfying dessert. Stalking and fishing paraphernalia cover the walls, conjuring up images of lairds in hunting lodges, while the deep seascape depicted in the stained glass frieze adds colourful charm. Understandably proud of their friendly, efficient service, this family-run Candleriggs spot looks set to remain a favourite for many years to come.

• High point: Genuinely special specials
• Low point: Too much choice