The Brasserie at the Chip

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Formerly known as Upstairs at the Chip, the Brasserie at the Chip offers the mid-range dining experience at this legendary Glasgow establishment (the bar/pub serves lighter snacks while the famous restaurant offers the formal and pricey à la carte experience). For as long as an enviable list of regulars can recall, the Ubiquitous Chip has reflected all that is great about Scottish produce – a principle clearly evident in the Brasserie menu. With firm foundations on seasonal ingredients, the choices can include some old favourites, such as vegetarian haggis or beef stovies, as well as daily changing dishes that reflect the best market supplies. To start, a terrine of chunky Ayrshire ham is layered with tender butter beans and spiked with smoky red pepper oil, while a bowl of Loch Etive mussels can make you daydream about sunsets over the Scotland's rugged west coast. Building on such evocative starters, a main course of whole plaice, served soft and flaky with a confident cheddar sauce, is particularly recommended. Desserts, such as the bread pudding piled high with fruits fattened in Muscat, are equally pleasing. At weekends, the Brasserie is confined to the intimate dining room upstairs, but on quieter mid-week nights the menu is served amid the fairy lights of the main restaurant. An exemplary wine list and genuinely good service complete the picture.

• High point: Makes you proud to be Scottish
• Low point: Upstairs room can be a bit of a squeeze