The Brasserie at the Chip

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

The Chip celebrates its 40th anniversary this year and a new management team (from sister outfit Stravaigin) are busy re-energizing the brand. The Brasserie is accessed through the restaurant‘s wide welcoming arch doorway and upstairs to a wrought iron mezzanine decked with leafy plants and sparkling lights that create a snug and pleasant atmosphere. Served by the same kitchen as the famed restaurant, the brasserie deals in original but unfussy takes on Scottish flavours. A starter of the Chip’s own venison haggis with its gamey and plumy overtones comes with fluffy tatties and neeps. From the mains a rustic pheasant sausage flavoured with whisky and spices is served with vibrant mustard mash on a reduction of prunes and Armagnac, while a dish of Ramsey’s pork loin is dipped in honey, pan fried and accompanied by a bacon skirlie (like a white pudding with smoky highlights). The Chip’s long tenure on Ashton Lane has helped nurture an instinct for West End mores, and sprightly touches like home-made bread, knowledgeable, chatty staff and fresh water on the table lift the Brasserie beyond the average bistro experience.

• High point: Sharp service in laid-back surroundings
• Low point: A bit of a squeeze to get to some tables