Amber Regent

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £7.95 (set lunch)
   £24.50 (evening meal)
• House wine: £11.95 per bottle

• Hitlisted
• High point: Good enough for Colin Montgomerie
• Low point: Can struggle for intimacy
• Food served: Mon–Thu noon–2.15pm, 5.30–11pm; Fri noon–2.15pm, 5.30–11.30pm; Sat noon–11.30pm; Closed Sun
• Private dining: F
• Open since: 1988
• Also offers: Children's high chairs, Takeaway

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
– in the shops now or buy online.

From the classily understated sign in the window to the photos of celebrity customers at the entrance, and from the thick drapery that flanks paintings by a local artist to the cute little thistles that garnish each table, it's clear that Amber Regent is no common Chinese restaurant. Even the staff uniforms are cool. Of course, if the food doesn't match up, none of this matters. But it thoroughly does. There's lots of seafood on the menu, including crystal king prawns, which are coated in chopped spring onions then deep-fried for both a crystallised appearance and a savoury twist, which is offset by the accompanying lemon sauce. A main course of sea bass is expertly steamed under scallions, coriander and thin shreds of ginger to fragrant but substantial effect. Elsewhere, Scottish produce is favoured, for example venison (in mandarin sauce) or lamb (sliced with black pepper and garlic). Even a humble chicken breast is elevated to 'aromatic' status – cooked whole, then carved into juicy, slightly spicy pieces and served with crisp bean sprouts. Dishes are artistically presented and have their own character and flavours – a standout trait in a Chinese restaurant. It's a fair bit dearer than most of the competition, admittedly, but it's also a fair bit better than many.