Yumla

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Yumla's snazzy entrance is not far from Argyle Street. But it is a doorway into an impressively grandiose space with a sense of calm one wouldn't think possible so close to the shopping thoroughfare. Décor is a clever blend of modern and imperial, ornate but hip, where diners see fish tanks or Chinese bric-a-brac and enjoy traditional, well-rendered food. Starters range from delicate vegetable spring rolls, served simply with soy, through to a steaming, glutinous and tangy bowl of soup filled with shredded duck and bamboo shoots. Main courses – generous in portion and classily presented – use tenderised meat that's thinly malleted. This really makes a difference to a 'sizzling satay' dish, with the prime beef and chicken sliding off the skewers. A Chinese curry fares well, too, with the distinct flavour of coconut preceding the heat of the spices, while a side of asparagus tips cooked in rice wine adds a little zing. Staff are attentive and seldom intrusive, ensuring plates are topped up with rice or that another drink is en route when required. Finally, its size makes Yumla ideally suited to large parties.

• High point: Great big space for such a central restaurant
• Low point: A bit too big when it's not busy