Jade Garden

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Without being able to point it out on a map, many Glaswegians will be vaguely aware of Jade Garden, its bright pink sign having been part of the Sauchiehall Street fascia for what seems like forever. Those who haven't visited the restaurant behind could do a lot worse than to redress that situation. It's a humble affair, reached by climbing a narrow staircase, with dim lights and old-fashioned painting panels. Starters arrive piping hot within two or three minutes of being ordered. The prawn rolls – rice batter pancake wrapped around a generous helping of prawn meat bound by egg – taste fresher and a lot less greasy than is often the case. There's also a selection of various soups, ribs and dumplings. From a bewilderingly large number of mains, accomplished cooking shines. Whether it's the simple combination of sliced chicken breast with lots of crispy onion, oyster sauce and a hint of ginger, or something more adventurous such as kung-po lemon sole (pleasantly contrasting textures of light fish, batter, sticky sauce and crunchy cashews), Jade Garden's chefs appear to understand how to use good, fresh ingredients. Much of the trade is lured by a variety of set-menu options, where the already very reasonable value gets better still. 'Cheap and cheerful' is no bad label to have.

• High point: Terrific value for money
• Low point: Struggles for atmosphere