Tapas Tree

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

A number of tapas places have come and gone in the capital over the years, but the Tapas Tree remains as successful as ever. It's been a New Town institution for 11 years now, and the reason for its success is pretty straightforward - great-tasting, no-nonsense tapas served at decent prices by efficient staff in a lively atmosphere. Hardly rocket science, is it? Keeping an eye on proceedings is gregarious owner Luis Letelier-Lobos, who marshals his Spanish staff into a crack team, and they need to be, because the scatter of basic tables split into three dining areas (including a basement that's ideal for larger parties) is absolutely hooching at weekends with diners who appreciate a good night out. The menu is extensive and well-prepared, with quality throughout. All the tapas staples are delivered expertly - the calamares are crispy and tangy, chorizo in cider is spiced just right, and the lamb and pork meatballs are succulent and juicy. The dessert menu is nothing to shout about, but there is good value house wine, a decent selection of Spanish beers and excellent coffees, all of which fit nicely with the simple but effective pleasures of this bustling, thriving place.

• High point: Bustling vibe reminiscent of Barca or Madrid
• Low point: Not much elbow room at busy times