Suruchi

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £6.95 (set lunch)
   £17 (evening meal)
• House wine: £10.50 per bottle

• High point: A very successful attempt at fusion cooking
• Low point: In accordance with the Scots palate, the food is not highly spiced
• Food served: Mon-Sun noon-2pm, 5.30-11.30pm
• Delivery: Free for orders over £15, £1 otherwise
• Private dining: Up to 20 covers
• Open since: 1992
• Also offers: Vegetarian options (at least 25% of menu), Childrens portions, Take away, Pre-theatre menu

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

At this restaurant, which is much touted as a fusion of Indian and Scottish styles, first-time diners might be a little surprised by its seeming reliance on Indian staples. Once you look closer at the menu, however, and begin to sample what's on offer, the differences start to assert themselves - reassuringly, the food is not about gimmickry as much as it seeks to use Scots ingredients to enhance the Indian dining experience. Set on a brightly-lit first floor with a view of the Festival Theatre (the popular pre-theatre menu is good value), Suruchi mingles Indian trappings with a tea-room feel. Haggis fritters might feature among the starters (it's vegetarian, and only lightly spiced), but the 'maharaja's kitchen' selection - which sits alongside more traditional Indian fare - is an eye-opener when it comes to subtle fusion. Fresh Scottish salmon and venison feature, as does a tandoori flavoured with lemon and black pepper, while the chicken sharaabi incorporates a tomato and red wine sauce, almost like a very successful curried casserole. If you don't mind music while you dine, Thursday's 'jalfrezie jazz' spot - featuring local musicians playing live - is worth noting in the diary, while the occasional themed menu, featuring a day of regional Indian specialities, are worth looking out for.