Pataka

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

From the abstract red roses adorning the white walls to the flowery geometrics of the wallpaper in the loos, the Mockintosh décor is relentless. Disconcertingly, this sets you up to expect Cullen skink rather than the Bengali cooking for which Pataka has built up an enthusiastic regular clientele, who enjoy the welcoming, convivial atmosphere in the busy dining room. The high-backed chairs lining the long tables look severe when the place is empty, but they're comfortable and create a surprising sense of privacy for large groups. Alternatively, there are small, intimate booths. The menu is designed to suit every palate, which is perhaps its weakness. There's a fair spread of starters, but steer clear of the stodgier options, deep-fried in heavy batter. Among many tasty fish, meat and vegetarian main dishes, there lurk concoctions such as malai wali murghi, described in the menu as 'spectacular, mild, spicy'. It is merely bland. In contrast, mangsho roti is a robust lamb curry flavoured with garlic, ginger, coriander and more than a hint of cloves and cinnamon – the residue of spice shrapnel attests to the fact that this is indeed home cooking.

• High point: Friendly, efficient staff
• Low point: Heavy batter