Lancers Brasserie

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

The endorsement from a young Elton John, photographed with a host of Lancers’ waiters on the faded menu in the window, suggests a harking back to former glory. The jovial atmosphere encountered on entering this popular Stockbridge local dispels this notion. Lancers' staff are warm and friendly, and, despite the fact that the interior décor would not be out of place in your granny’s 1970s bungalow the ambience is buzzing. The menu offers treats from Bengal and North India with a strong bias towards vegetarians. Starters include a fine Mach Kebab – fish in a spiced batter – which is pleasantly crispy, as well as tandoori lamb kebabs which are a little chewy but full of flavour. Main courses fare better and are distinctive -– there's no ‘one-sauce-fits-all’ approach here. A Ginger Murgh is a tingling chicken curry with fresh ginger and coriander. The Methi Ghost is a fierier lamb dish flavoured with fenugreek, and the Aloo Mater is a more muted potato and pea curry. An intriguing Kurji Lamb for four – a whole leg of lamb marinated and barbecued – sounds enticing as an extra special treat at £84, but must be pre-ordered. Standard desserts are not the most exciting, but an almond ice-cream provides a refreshing end to the meal.

• High point: Convivial staff charm large groups and couples alike
• Low point: 1970s decor needs updating