Kalpna

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

It's been left to the Kalpna to fly the flag for meat-free eating in a surprisingly under-served capital for quarter of a century. To its credit it has done so constantly, while simultaneously being one of Edinburgh's top Indian restaurants. Kalpna's feel is, appropriately enough given the typical vegetarian's mindset, laid-back and unfussy. However, it's far from a wholefood or café set-up – despite the very modest prices the quality of dining is top-notch. Veggies will be spoiled for choice, and might find it easier to go for the thali, which offers selections from across the menu. Paneer – an Indian cheese and almost a staple – comes as a kebab with onions and peppers, while the aloo firdoshi has a spicy kick. The kofta are almost mini-kievs, oozing fruits and nuts, while the khumb masala with its mild-yet-flavoursome sauce, is a mushroom-lover's dream. However, the taste explosions climax with the dessert: kulfi, the house speciality, is a clay pot containing ridiculously sweet – but not sickly – ice-cream. With sizeable portions and all-you-can-eat buffets, the ever-changing menu – including a very different South Indian section – will take several return visits to get through. It will be worth it, even for the dedicated meat eater.

• High point: Top quality dining with many options for those on a budget
• Low point: A little stark – maybe the refurb will help