Ann Purna

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

After 25 years at the helm of her wee Southside restaurant, Mrs Pandya could only be persuaded to retire when nephew Sona Singh agreed to take over – and then only on the condition that chef Hem Singh would remain and there would be no changes that might upset her regulars. As soon as you catch the unmistakeable aroma of food being freshly cooked, the appeal of the vegetarian Gujerati-inspired fare here is obvious. And a glance at the prices and the wine list reveals no worries there either. The cooking runs gleefully through tastes and textures, rising knowledgeably to special requests including vegan and kosher. Crispy poppadums with tastebud-tingling chutneys and pickles might be followed by tiny crunchy puris sauced with tamarind and chick pea noodles, while a main of bahar-e-nau korma combines potatoes and peas with carrot, cashew and coconut for a fresh and spicy sweetness. And desserts – ahh, just deserts! Shri Khand is a beguilingly pretty confection of yoghurt, saffron and pistachio, while cardamom, almond and sultanas with warm and creamy wheat noodles make Dooth Tak something approximating a hug in a dish. The £6.95 buffet lunch is a recent innovation, but auntie would undoubtedly approve.

• High point: Like being cooked for by a friend who has run all the way home from the allotment
• Low point: Distracting video screen