Trattoria Trevi

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Though a long-time presence on the West End scene, Trevi has changed hands a few times in recent years. Current manager Francesco Campo (formerly of Bar Milano and Gambrino's) is aiming to bring a little Sicilian sunshine to this Kelvinbridge spot. The warm yellow walls are a good start, while the ornate framed paintings and polished wooden furniture make for a handsome dining area. The menu does not stray far from traditional pizza combinations and pasta dishes, while there are some not-strictly-Italian items included, too, such as the spicy barbecued chicken wings starter. The Sorrento pizza has plenty of sliced mushrooms and red peppers, with cured salami circles laid on top of the melted cheese rather than cooked along with the other toppings. The spaghetti carbonara is a faithful rendition of the bacon and cream classic and a side order of garlic spinach is full of flavour. Half a dozen desserts are listed in the menu, including tiramisu and profiteroles. According to management, large bookings may not always be accommodated at weekends when tables are reliably filled by regulars.

• High point: Mediterranean décor
• Low point: Disappointing starter