La Parmigiana

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

La Parmigiana is a proper, old-school Italian dining experience, with gracious, knowledgeable – if slightly solemn – Italian waiters in long starched aprons, a menu that showcases accomplished Italian cooking, and a wine list that would not look out of place in a respected restaurant in Rome. And after 30 years on the Glasgow scene it has just regained its two AA rosettes. Deep, rich red walls, crisp linen, angled wooden tables and hushed tones all conspire to create a serious, grown-up foodie experience. Owner-chef Sandro Giovanazzi works his magic in the kitchen using the best in local and seasonal produce to offer a dinner menu of eleven starters and ten mains. A lobster ravioli in coral-coloured cream and basil sauce is delicately sweet in flavour, the fresh fleshy pasta melting in the mouth. Cuttlefish tagliolini with shellfish, olive oil, parsley and chilli is a fiery mouthful of inky pasta flavoured robustly with garlic and topped with a generous serving of langoustine and mussels. Using superbly fresh ingredients, this simple dish is a delight. A variation of veal saltimbocca, which sees veal escalope paired with Parma ham, fresh mozzarella and asparagus in white wine and tomato jus, is substantial but light enough to afford you room for dessert. A wonderfully wobbly, creamy vanilla pannacotta is the prize, which, taken with a foamy macchiato and an Amaretto on the side, is probably as close to heaven as you’re going to get on Great Western Road.

• High point: Accomplished Italian cook never disappoints
• Low point: Cheesy Italian pop warblings