O Sole Mio

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

This quaint little trattoria at the east end of Bath Street is now in its fifth decade. The interior is traditional, with booths separated by wooden trellises, while the open kitchen is shrouded under a faded maroon canopy. There's a nice air of authenticity about the place, between the age-old log-fired oven (apparently the first of its kind in Glasgow). The menu may be short on surprises, but it has abundant selections of most Italian favourites: pizza, farinaceous (pasta), vitello (veal), pollame (poultry), pesce (fish) and manzo (beef). The breaded mushrooms look small, but are stuffed to bursting point with cheese and ham. The quattro stagioni pizza is thin, crispy and topped with chunky slices of tomato, mushrooms, peppers and artichokes. Jumping out from the miscellany of pasta are tortelloni stuffed with ricotta, tossed in a creamy sauce with fried onions and mushrooms. Waiting staff may well attempt to ply you with liqueur come time for coffee. If you're game, try a shot of limoncello – a sweet traditional southern Italian concoction flavoured with lemon rinds. It's apparently good for digestion, among other things.

• High point: Complimentary shot…
• Low point: …may encourage drinking on a weeknight