The Big Blue

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

Once again part of the Paperinos group after a flirtation with other management, this West End favourite’s chief selling point is its riverside location, the bar section opening on to the Kelvin with outdoor tables that are always packed in summer, when it’s a great place to sit out with a drink. With its cheap and cheerful menu, it’s particularly popular with students who may not notice that the Mediterranean tiled décor was last updated when they were in primary school and the windowless restaurant area is rather dim. The food is the usual pastas, pizzas and burgers, with few fancy touches. The beefburger is juicy and filling, but let down by greasy fat chips (from the chippy upstairs) on the side – though that may be just what you’re after. Spaghetti carbonara is very rich and creamy, with a decent amount of bacon bits, while the ice-cream is good quality. There’s a limited selection of cocktails with more promised and the wine selection is small but well chosen.

• High point: Looking onto the Kelvin on a fine day
• Low point: Cramped surroundings inside