Killermont Polo Club

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Located on an unremarkable section of Maryhill Road in a former polo clubhouse, this restaurant attracts most of its custom through glowing recommendations rather than luring the passing trade. The main dining room is decorated in the style of a hotel and manages to exude an exclusive yet cosy feel, its walls adorned with pictures of polo players and other memorabilia. The restaurant aims to recreate dishes served by the Maharaja of Jaipur to visiting polo teams in the 1920s and 30s. (The menu frequently makes references to polo, offering dishes such as sirloin steak and scampi 'for home games'.) King prawn butterfly, one of the starters on the dum pukht selection, is extremely rich in a creamy sauce, but the dhungar machli tikka – roasted chunks of salmon in a marinade of fennel, ginger, honey, dill and a hint of mustard – is more interesting. Among main courses, tender and mild lamb with mint and yoghurt is prepared using cumin and coriander, while the lentil-rich dansak is usually reliable. As well as house wines, there is a more extensive selection with some varietals especially selected to complement south Asian food.

• High point: Getting a table in the conservatory area
• Low point: Long pause between finishing the main course and staff offering dessert