The Shenaz

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• Average price 2 courses: £15
• House wine: £12.25 (1 litre) per bottle

• High point: A menu with something for everyone
• Low point: Pretty bland décor
• Food served: Sun-Thu 4-11.30pm; Fri/Sat 4pm-midnight
• Open since: 1969
• Also offers: Vegetarian options (at least 25% of menu), Childrens portions, Childrens high chairs, Take away, Pre-theatre menu

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

The Shenaz, which opened in 1963 and was one of the very first Indian Tandoori restaurants in Scotland, is the sort of establishment upon which Glasgow's reputation as 'curry capital of the UK' was built. Low-lit, packed with rows of tables and chairs, and sparsely decorated (but for the odd pot plant), aesthetically it's largely no-frills, but that misses the point. It's the food that counts, and with one of the fullest menus you're likely to find in an Indian restaurant, it counts in spades. Keema bari hari mirch is a house speciality, comprising an oven-cooked green pepper stuffed with mince and saffron rice that makes for an agreeably light starter. Many of the recipes are as old as the restaurant itself. Chicken jaipuri is a standout - barbecued chicken chunks, blended with onions, peppers and mushrooms in a fairly mild sauce, accented with deep hits of coriander and spices. It's a little on the sloppy side, but leaves all the more to soak up with a big chunk of naan. And isn't that just what a good old-fashioned British curry is all about?