Shish Mahal

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

This bastion of British-Indian dining is nearly 50 years old and is run by the same family that opened it in 1964. The Shish, as it's known to regulars, remains an atmospheric place in which to spend an evening. The smart, well-designed interiors – and immaculately dressed staff – contribute to an atmosphere that manages to combine refinement with informality. It serves as a reminder that this was one of the first Indian restaurants in Glasgow to provide a more salubrious environment in which to dispatch a chicken korma or tikka massala. With such credentials, it is perhaps not wholly surprising that, in culinary terms, the Shish no longer leads the pack. The menu now feels a little predictable rather than inspiring. A starter of gobi 'lolly pops' consists of cauliflower florets in a crisp pakora batter and is a good way to get things going. But the lamb dhahi deghie can be let down by the quality of the meat, despite a well-executed sauce of yoghurt and green chillies. Such quibbles are unlikely to dissuade the Shish's many devotees, however, and judging by its enduring popularity, it's still more hit than miss.

• High point: There's a real buzz about the place
• Low point: Can be slow when busy