Koh-i-Noor

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Walking into the Koh-i-Noor, named after the famous Indian diamond gifted to Queen Victoria, is a bit like being transported onto a Bollywood film set. It first opened in 1964 on Gibson Street before relocating to its current location aside the M8, and the interiors boast carved archways, brightly coloured murals, ornate chairs and a huge, marble fountain as the centrepiece. The all-you-can-eat buffet, which is very popular, is laid out grandly around this water-feature. (Despite being an interesting decorative touch, it produces a constant trickle of water that some might find more irritating than meditative during a meal.) To start, stuffed samosas are crunchy and a bit dry, while tender pakoras have just the right amount of spice. The extensive main course selection is where Koh-i-Noor chefs stand out. Made using fresh cream and nuts, tikka bahar – a dish favoured by Moghul emperors – is mild. Chicken chatt patt with peppers, onions, green chillies and tomatoes offers a spicier alternative. As well as house specialties, there are also 'old favourites', kormas and biryani, which are cooked in fried rice and served with mint sauce or curried gravy.

• High point: Over 40 years of restaurant experience
• Low point: Charing Cross location overlooks the M8