Ashoka Ashton Lane

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

Represented citywide, you’ll never be too far away from a Harlequin Group franchised Ashoka venue. Their popular flagship Ashton Lane restaurant commands a prime corner spot in this vibrant West End thoroughfare. In almost 20 years the décor has changed little. And nostalgic aromas of exotic spices still waft down the cobbled lane, enticing the taste buds of students, party-revellers and families like a culinary magnet. The bustling street vibe continues inside this restaurant which is noisy and informal with jovial diners and, at times, overly swift service. Menus are pretty similar across all six venues with meat, fish, and prawn, vegetable and paneer variations well-represented throughout. Starters feature a wide choice of pakoras, dosa pancakes and puris to tandoori salmon tikka and spicy fish. For mains, old favourites of traditional curries and kormas feature alongside house specialities of massala, rogan josh and chasni, and connoisseur’s choice such as tender desi-style lamb cooked on the bone. With flavoursome dishes, hearty portions and pre-theatre, lunch or supper set menus, prices represent reasonable value at the dependably similar Ashokas.

• High point: Vibrant Ashton Lane location and late-opening weekends
• Low point: Staff dart between the cramped tables compromising relaxation