Modern India

Send us more details about this place.

The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

As exemplified by the name, you feel an immediate sense of contemporary confidence in the air when entering Modern India. Soft candle-light and hushed, traditional music lend a subdued and rather romantic atmosphere - although the service, while professional, can be fairly abrupt. Plump, spicy garlic mussels also give a suitably 'modern' feel to a range of classic starters (pakoras, dosas, samosas et al), arriving immersed in a thick, rich white sauce and served with a warm and crispy paratha. The menu has a section devoted to seafood - including salmon, swordfish and monkfish - all of which are tandoori-roasted and therefore free of any butter or oils. Tava dishes, which come served on an onion platter, also feature prominently. Sylheti chicken tava is cooked in a sweet and sour sauce, rich with tomatoes, garlic, ginger and coriander, though there is no sign of the promised cashew nuts. Egg-fried rice makes for a different and interesting accompaniment, as does a crispy and buttery cheese and onion naan bread.

• High point: Cheese and onion naan
• Low point: Some dishes don't quite match their description