Arts Café

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

'Unpretentious' can often sound like an insult to a more insecure establishment, but here less fuss is ultimately more. And given that it is situated beside a huge art gallery, across from Waverley Station and within walking distance of various office blocks, the Arts Café couldn't help but attract a rather random clientele. Thankfully, the unfussy canteen-style service is a great leveller and everyone can just roll up and fill their boots at a pretty reasonable rate. There's little need for ceremony here and while it gets a bit noisy – due for the most part to the extremely high ceiling, rather than other noise pollution – the selection is more than adequate for lunch. The burgers are lifted above average with some decent toppings, the soup does the business and what the sarnies lack in innovation they make up in generosity of portion and freshness. There are concessions made for kids, too, with a respectable array of options. After an intense dose of culture in the adjacent galleries, a sugar rush is welcome and there's plenty to choose from: slices of chocolate fudge cake, apple pie or – if you can handle it – some seriously rocky, rocky road.

• High point: Delectable tray-bakes
• Low point: Sadly the coffee doesn't match