Traverse Bar Café

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Taking a room like this – a windowless subterranean theatre foyer-cum-passageway – and making something coherent and appealing is an achievement in itself, but the Trav is also a watering hole, nexus for cultural debate and, more importantly here, a source of pretty fine food. With the menu revamped for 2008 and a new wine list promised, the Traverse has successfully taken things up a notch. It's a story of two halves: burgers, pasta, warm sandwiches and nachos are familiar and reliable, while more robust options include fine ideas such as mussel and clam chowder, slow braised lamb shanks with butter beans, red wine and mash, and proscuitto-wrapped monkfish on chilli and herb noodles. Unsurprisingly, there is more to pay for these, but it's comparable to local bistro prices. The lamb is as unctuous and beautiful as you could wish, even if the rich, savoury gravy could do with even more red wine. The Crombie's steak burgers are a bit mealy, despite their legendary local status, but, in general, there is much here that's impressive. Whether it's a quick bite before a show, a late supper or sit-down lunch, the Traverse does it with some flair. A definite crowd-pleaser.

• High point: Covers a lot of ground successfully
• Low point: Less than brilliant burgers