Gallery Café

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Just as the galleries upstairs follow trends in contemporary art, the café capitalises on the current inclination towards fair trade, organic and seasonal ingredients, treating diners to a selection of wholesome, appetising and downright tasty meals. The general format of the menu remains constant – soups, hot specials, baked potatoes and salads – but this simplicity belies the underlying thoughtfulness. The soups combine multiple components to provide depth of flavour, if a little heavy on the salt. A sweet potato, spinach and goat's cheese bake is tempting, and the salads, available on their own, on the side, or on top of a potato, are meals in themselves: roast aubergine, fennel and red chard with a lemon and chilli dressing is a winning combination. A plethora of cakes (all the kitchen staff take their turn baking) ranges from the gooiest of chocolate brownies to the odd yet pleasant, crumbly texture of a ginger and oat slice, and often include a gluten-free treat. With wine also available, eating at the gallery is far more sophisticated than a standard canteen, making lunch the highlight of a visit rather than an afterthought.

• High point: The vast array of cakes
• Low point: It's a bit of a trek to get there