The New York Steam Packet

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The New York Steam Packet is secreted up an alley off Rose Street that, fittingly, looks like an abandoned set from West Side Story. A tight spiral staircase leads to a wood-panelled, cabin-like room bedecked in seductive art deco posters for transatlantic adventures. Most striking, however, is the giant Statue of Liberty sculpture looming large over all. From a tiny open kitchen Kevin Watt, enthusiastic owner and chef since December 2007, delivers a Franco-American three-course set menu. Start with a small plate of vigorous mussels or a soft coconut and sweet potato soup. A well-cooked slice of salmon stands out among straight-up mains such as chicken in wine, steaks and burgers, all with half a plate of crisp chips. Finish off with all-American comfort afters that include chocolate fudge and Dime Bar cake, and wash down the gooey gunk with a big mug of coffee. It is a welcoming place, an intimate space, let down a little by lackadaisical touches such as tired salad and wholesale desserts (and how about some bread with those mussels?) but hopefully Kevin will steer the good ship towards a happy horizon.

• High point: Great little room…
• Low point: …let down a little by unfinished touches