Buffalo Grill

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

Native American may be the predominant theme in this pair of Edinburgh diners, but the scene-stealing beef is seriously Scottish. A friendly welcome contributes to a laid-back vibe in the Stockbridge branch, as a loyal clientele enjoys the consistently enjoyable grub and liberal BYOB policy. The Chapel Street branch, meanwhile, provides reasonably-priced, meaty fare for the students and tourists who frequent Edinburgh’s Southside. Buffalo Grill aims to provide restaurant quality food while creating an easy-going diner feel, and most of the time it succeeds in its mission. For starters, blackened chicken wings are smoky and spicy, while an unusual salad of prawn and palm shoots comes with a nice, sour Oriental-style dressing. For mains, the grill is king, offering a controlled selection of burgers and steaks. Every cut doesn’t come every way, which suggests a kitchen with a good understanding of the raw ingredients. An already good rib-eye is enlivened with lemon and cracked pepper, while the Roquefort rib eye arrives medium rare (as ordered), the tender, juicy meat complemented by a creamy garlic, wine and blue cheese sauce. A chicken special also balances cream, garlic and jalapeno convincingly. For afters, a crêpe loaded with booze and hot banana hits the spot, while pecan pie arrives warm, the sticky crunch nicely complemented by vanilla ice cream. All in, it’s the kind of low-key, friendly place every neighbourhood deserves to have on its doorstep. Long may the buffalo roam.

• High point: Well-cooked meat
• Low point: Just a wee bit lacking in innovation