The Rainbow Arch

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Hopefully a planned refurbishment in 2008 will breathe new life into this well-established and popular restaurant. Owner Henry Tse also owns the downstairs Henry's Cellar Bar, with which the restaurant shares its rather basic toilets. The planned refurbishment may see the reopening of the upstairs noodle bar. Currently the restaurant offers a separate dim sum menu, which unfortunately reads rather better than it delivers with the various components of a two-person mixed starter characterised by a rather bland, chewy, sameness. A better delivery comes from mains, with a staff recommendation of crispy pork providing an appealing contrast of crunchy coating and soft, gelatinous pork slices. Likewise, sizzling chicken with ginger and spring onion has well defined flavours and a refreshing lightness about it. Erratic service may well fluctuate from overly attentive to inattentive and back again over the course of your meal, but is pleasant enough throughout. Brownie points are scored, however, for a longer than average vegetarian selection, and desserts such as steamed egg custard bun and Malay steamed sponge cake make a change from the ubiquitous pineapple fritters and ice-cream.

• High point: Convenient location and late opening
• Low point: Bland dim sum