Great Wall Chinese Restaurant

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

If the Great Wall of China is visible from space, it's fitting that the Great Wall Chinese Restaurant occupies a similarly conspicuous position on Lothian Road. Behind the sizable façade, the décor is standard Chinese chintz – mirrored walls, myriad lanterns and a fish-filled rock pool in a large dining area perfect for parties. In both name and appearance, the Great Wall is the archetypal Chinese restaurant, so it's no surprise that the largely traditional menu focuses on familiar favourites (although there are also dim sum, served from noon to 6pm daily, and a few Thai options). The starters are exactly as they should be: duck spring rolls envelop juicy meat in crispy batter, and hot and sour soup is robust and spicy. For mains, there's more emphasis on batter than chicken in the sweet and spicy shredded crispy chicken with pepper and ginger chilli, while tender Szechuan barbecue pork lacks the fieriness boasted of on the menu. The food may seem unadventurous, but the Great Wall provides everything you'd expect from a Chinese meal: good value and good quality food in a convenient location. Open until midnight daily, it's a safe bet for Lothian Road's passers-by and hungry revellers alike.

• High point: A safe bet for familiar favourites
• Low point: Leisurely service