Loon Fung

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Still going strong after 36 years, with a loyal following among locals, Loon Fung is undoubtedly doing something right. Specialising in Canton-style seafood, a two-person starter of chopped scallops with cashews and crisp vermicelli gives some indication of what this may be. Served with lettuce leaves to use as wraps, the result is a very fresh and clean-tasting dish that, despite the seemingly vast portion, disappears all too quickly. Moving away from the aquatic, quality remains reassuringly high with the likes of roast pork served in barbecue sauce. Served sizzling hot with a decent – though not overpowering – kick of chilli, the sweet and spicy sauce lifts the dish without dominating the meat. A potential downside to having an established clientele is the lack of menu descriptions to help those unfamiliar with some dishes. However, if asked, waiting staff are happy to patiently and accurately explain any dish. Similarly, the décor is more comfortably broken in than contemporary cutting edge. Ultimately though, the secret to Loon Fung's continued success lies simply in providing somewhere you can come and relax while enjoying assured cooking year after year.

• High point: Consistently high standards
• Low point: Not the hippest joint in town