Kweilin

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Note: we have been informed that subsequent to this review, this restaurant is now under new management. (15/7/08)

Chinese cuisine and fine dining don't often go hand in hand, but since 1984 Kweilin has built an enviable reputation for both. An impressive wine list ranging from the affordable to the extravagant indicates the high-end dining experience aimed for by owner Derek Tang, with the grown-up ambience (kids are discouraged) supported by the tasteful, traditional (though ageing) décor. The similarly conventional menu contains few surprises – disappointingly, the otherwise attentive and efficient staff can fail to draw attention to the enticing specials menu, laid out on an unobtrusive chalkboard on the way out – but offers a good selection of Cantonese dishes prepared using fresh, decent quality ingredients, with seafood options including fresh lobster and scallops. Crisp spring rolls and robust, falling-off-the-bone barbeque ribs make satisfying starters. For mains, tender beef slices are served in a delicately flavoured black-bean sauce, and seemingly subtle Schezuan chicken builds to a pleasing spiciness. For dessert, try the refreshing, beautifully presented fruit platter complete with kitsch cocktail umbrella. Kweilin's popularity is obvious: it is packed even on a Sunday evening, and loyal returning customers are greeted like old friends. Booking is therefore advised. Reassuringly expensive, Kweilin delivers on its promise of reliably high quality Cantonese dishes and continues to uphold its long-established reputation.

• High point: Reliably high-quality Cantonese cuisine
• Low point: Ageing décor needs an overhaul