Viva Mexico

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Viva Mexico is a well-established Old Town haunt that is favoured by fans of Hispanic food, music and culture. Whether attending salsa, merengue or bachata lessons in the cavernous basement or popping in for lunch at the bar-style restaurant, regulars will be familiar with the relaxed atmosphere and earthy feel of this deceptively large venue. The food is unfussy and appetising, with no-frills menus packed with staple offerings that have made Mexican food popular. However, amid the enchiladas, burritos and chimichangas, there are also delightful taco meals that have their roots in Spanish tapas and share obvious similarities. Served with minimal fuss, these tasty lunch morsels include juicy prawns in a fiery sauce, strips of steak with melted cheese and pasilla chile salsa, and tasty potato and chickpeas sandwiched in a hot taco. The same idea is applied in the evening with the 'plato nacional' providing a good taster selection of starters. Said evening menu offers a much greater selection, including the chef's specials, but maintains the affable, if uninspiring classic dishes. Keenly priced, Viva Mexico is a place to relax, dance and have fun while sampling some straightforward Mexican cooking.

• High point: Well-priced taco selection
• Low point: Rough and ready service