Coconut Grove

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The Coconut Grove is a small, friendly diner by Tollcross – an ideal spot for an enterprising restaurant, which the Grove certainly is. For instance, the subtle décor eschews the heavy-handed approach of sombreros and chilli motifs, replacing them with an interesting mix of contemporary photography and traditional Mexican artwork. While the music seamlessly sweeps from Latin rhythms to modern, upbeat tracks, the dining room fills with a pleasant blend of couples and larger groups. The feel is neat and convivial, if a little cool. There's little sophistication in the wooden seats and tables, but the food on offer does display variety and ambition. The guacamole dip, nachos and sope de tortilla are all rewarding appetisers, even if the large portions can leave you reeling. To follow, there are the obligatory burritos, enchiladas and fajitas, but there's also a selection of platillos athenticos de Mexico. For instance, the filet siete chillie – a beef tenderloin cooked in a seven-chilli sauce – offers an intriguing and enticing challenge, or how about king prawns cooked in a creamy tequila sauce? The Coconut Grove cleverly caters for lively parties and those willing to experiment with their food. For that, it should be applauded.

• High point: A menu that surprises and intrigues
• Low point: Unpolished service