The Blue Parrot Cantina

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The Blue Parrot isn't a place that shouts about itself. From the road outside, there are few signs that this compact restaurant exists at all. If there was a prize for subtlety, this place would win hands down. It doesn't even do garish wall mounts or brightly coloured paint. There are no sparking fajita plates and there's a noticeable lack of waitresses with six shooter-style tequila holsters. The music is unobtrusive, the décor is subtle and you'd be hard pushed to spot a hen night or a 21st birthday party. Instead, there is a degree of understated refinement underwritten by a friendly, purposeful atmosphere. The food, prepared in an open kitchen that you pass as you enter the place, is fresh and fiery when necessary, but not by default. The ceviche of swordfish, salmon, monkfish and tiger prawns, for example, zings with lime, chilli and coriander while main courses, such as the chicken fajitas and picadillo beef burritos, are carefully seasoned, satisfying and tasty. The momentum is maintained with the delicious rice, beans and salads that are served along with mains and are all too often overlooked. This is good Mexican food without the clichéd paraphernalia.

• High point: Refined and affordable menu
• Low point: Undersized serving dishes