Skippers Seafood Bistro

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £10 (set lunch)
   £22 (evening meal)
• House wine: £13.40 per bottle

• Hitlisted
• High point: Creative flair in a homely atmosphere
• Low point: Small dining rooms can lead to noisiness
• Food served: Mon-Fri 12.30-2pm, 7-10pm; Sat 12.30-2pm, 6.30-10pm; Sun 12.30-2.30pm, 7-10pm
• Private dining: Up to 18 covers
• Open since: 1979
• Also offers: Childrens high chairs, Wheelchair access

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

Culinary expertise is the staple from this stalwart outfit, which has been serving consistently great seafood for more than 25 years. It's situated off a courtyard at the back of Dock Place and its welcoming deep red and wood interiors and cozy nooks and crannies provide an air of sanctuary from the hectic thoroughfares of Leith. A busy menu that changes twice daily in response to quality and seasonal sourcing parades a diverse range from oysters to lemon sole, Finnan Haddie to mackerel, and demonstrates chef Mary Walker's skilful handling of fresh, prime ingredients. A hearty starter of spiced potted crab is moist, accompanied by juicy crayfish tails and a sweet toasted brioche, while a spiky coconut, chilli and coriander sauce adds perfect eastern zing to fresh plump west coast mussels. From the mains, a thick hunk of tuna wrapped in a cashew nut crust and lightly pan-fried is a spectacular mix of textures and vivid flavours - a rich seam of sparkling rare tuna melting tenderly into the crunchy outer layer - while the fillet of halibut is roasted to perfection and wrapped in prosciutto with a little pile of home-made ratatouille. It's relaxed and affable here, with knowledgeable staff who are on hand to impart their knowledge and proud of their well-deserved reputation.