Fishers Bistro

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Ah, Fishers – this place just does it better. From the wood-panelled entrance into the circular bar area to the view out to the Water of Leith from the dining room, the relaxed but superlative service all adds to the star of the show here: the food. The menu changes daily and there's a selection of well-loved 'Fishers' features' and a separate vegetarian selection, as well as the bar menu, so a kir royale while choosing is advised. Starters along the lines of grilled mackerel with a beetroot, roast potato and onion salad with sour cream, or seared tuna with a soy and sesame seed dressing, nori seaweed and wasabi mustard, display innovative touches. The mains are generous: a grilled fillet of halibut with prawn bisque, salmon caviar and chive crème fraîche sounds over-layered but the meaty fish is well supported by the fresh flavours of the silky bisque. Pan-fried fillet of wild sea bass with roast butternut squash, rosemary purée and crispy Serrano ham is a taste explosion, perfectly balanced and flawlessly cooked. Whether you're having a three-course à la carte meal accompanied by fine wines, or beer and mussels from the all-day bar menu, there's no difference in either the quality of food or the way in which you're welcomed.

• High point: Not one aspect in particular – everything is spot on
• Low point: Leaving