Café Royal Oyster Bar

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

They just don’t make gas fitting showrooms like they used to; this splendidly elegant reminder of Victorian Edinburgh is testament to that. No expense seems to have been spared when the building was kitted out for just that purpose in 1862, and many of the original features still remain, including the hand-painted Royal Doulton tiles and beautiful marble oyster bar, which runs almost the entire length of the spacious room. Under the watchful eye of six dashing stained-glass sportsmen, the gracious waiting staff introduce themselves and the menu for the evening. Unsurprisingly, fresh oysters are a key focus, and come four ways. In their most natural form, they arrive atop a gleaming mound of crushed ice, with a dash of lemon and sprinkle of Tabasco for good company. Scotland’s larder has been raided to assemble the rest of the menu, with a smooth and creamy Cullen Skink prepared using Arbroath smokies, while a main of seared king scallops is paired with pesto mash and spiced Stornoway black pudding. Various kinds of meat, fish and crustacean are also available ‘from the char-grill’ or alternatively ‘from the smoker’. It is worth leaving room for dessert: toasted teacake bread and butter pudding with vanilla ice-cream is an old-school treat that’s crisp, soft and sweet in all the right places.

• High point: Soaking up the surroundings in this delightfully genteel Auld Edinburgh dining room
• Low point: Ambient sounds are at the mercy of the clientele drinking next door

The LIST Card F28

Café Royal Oyster Bar

The following information has been provided by the restaurant.

More Theatrical than Edinburgh in August, it is a perfect Victorian relic tucked down an alley off Princes Street. The fantastically atmospheric room-a riot of stained glass, murals, mirrors and wood paneling-that's the star. Taste Scottish produce at its best. Pop in to Edinburgh's hidden gem to sample a selection of Scottish cask ales, malt whiskies and why not try our home smoked delights, we smoke food on the premises every day. Don't miss the best oysters and mussels in town. Food is served all day in the bar and restaurant, the bar is open for drinks till late.

Guardian Newspaper—21 June 2008
Irvine Welsh’s (author) favorite restaurant in Edinburgh
“As well as being an amazingly beautiful building, the Café Royal is also a great place for seafood. My usual order is a glass of champagne and a plate of oysters. They’re just gorgeous here”

Telegraph Newspaper—24 May 2008
“This polished gem set near Edinburgh’s Castle Rock is worth visiting just to ogle its Victorian opulence. If there had been a pub on board the Titanic, this would have been it.”

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