Bar 91

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The refurbished Bar 91 has retained its aloof smartness and lack of pretention, with new chunky tables, dark red and oyster walls and a refitted bar stocking beers by West Brewing Company. Light and airy, it has a steady office lunchtime trade that makes the most of an attractive menu, which is served by informative and considerate staff. A bruschetta piled with cherry tomatoes and mozzarella and served with a generous leaf salad is almost enough for a main course, while the lentil soup is thick and substantial. Besides a range of salads, sandwiches, burgers and pastas, more elaborate options include delicate, flaky peat-smoked haddock on smooth chive mash with a creamy mornay sauce, replete with a poached egg on top. Meanwhile, the peppers, green beans and courgette in the vegetable tortilla are roasted just enough to release their sweetness but retain their bite. A shortened menu featuring pizzas is available after 6pm, when the lights dim and the room buzzes with conversation. Plans are afoot to have this atmosphere spilling into the street with an opening façade.

• High point: Shoogly table spotted and swiftly sorted
• Low point: Awkward cutlery