The Greek Golden Kebab

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Those unfamiliar with this Southside favourite might think the Greek Golden Kebab is a loving pastiche of a bygone age. Trellises between the six compact booths display fake vines and souvenirs, while tourist board photos of the owners' Cypriot homeland adorn the walls. A loyal and ever-expanding fan base has been looked after by generations of the Kyriakou family since 1972. Along with the personal welcome, it's the food that keeps customers coming back. Sourced personally through early visits to Glasgow's markets, the ingredients are top quality and the kitchen transforms them into Greek classics. The pale, smoky taramasalata and garlicky hummus are mopped up with warm pita, while keftedes are crisp, spiced meatballs that remain juicy inside. The lamb in the kleftiko is marinaded and slow cooked until so tender that a knife is scarcely needed to cut it. An excellent value four-course mezedes allows a taste of most dishes for those with large appetites, but, with the addition of another main, it could easily serve two. Room should be saved for the kataifi – a honey-drenched dessert worth getting into a spin about.

• High point: Good food and personal attention
• Low point: Limited opening – so book ahead to get in