The Greek Golden Kebab

• 
• 
• 
• 
• 
• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £12.50 (lunch)
   £12.50 (evening meal)
• House wine: £10.50 (1l) per bottle

• High point: Home-kitchen Cypriot cuisine
• Low point: Some tables cramped
• Food served: Thu-Sun 5pm-midnight. Closed Mon-Wed
• Open since: 1972
• Also offers: Vegetarian options (at least 25% of menu), Childrens portions, Take away

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

The Greek Golden Kebab isn't so much a restaurant as a licensed embassy for Greek Cypriot hospitality - a small but virtually perfectly-formed taverna bedecked with innumerable images and memorabilia of Cyprus, with jolly bazouki music completing the holiday island idyll. The Kyriakou family has run this Southside Hellenic gem since 1972, and there's a huge regular following, so while the decor is much the same as ever it's largely because the customers won't allow any major changes: you don't tinker lightly with a genuine local dining institution. A rousing Greek coffee, followed by a mezedes selection of hummus, keftedes and dolmades - with mounds of salad and fresh pita bread - is a neat starter. The whopping chicken kebab bulges with succulent chunks of marinated meat, beautifully charcoal-seared, along with onion, peppers and tomato. This well-crafted dish is served with mounds of herb-infused rice, a colourful 'wild garden' of a salad, button mushrooms and more. For the full Greek night on a plate, try the four-course meal for one at £16.95 - a snip. There's also a good selection of quaffable Greek wines.