Visit La Garrigue, arguably the most authentic French restaurant in town and be transported into the Languedoc region of France. Enjoy the food, sample the 'Terroir wines' and the warm service. Winner 'Les Routiers Guide; Scottish restaurant of the year'.

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £21 (lunch)
   £21 (evening meal)
• House wine: £17.95 per bottle

• Hitlisted
• High point: The young, black-clad staff are friendly . . .
• Low point: . . . but a little too heavy on up-selling drinks and side orders
• Food served: Mon-Fri 7-10am, noon-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm; Sat 8am-11am, noon-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm; Sun 8am-11am, noon-3pm, 5.30-10.30pm
• Bar open: Mon-Sat 11am-midnight; Sun 12.30-midnight
• Private dining: 6, 10, 14,
• No. overnight rooms: 72
• Open since: 1994
• Also offers: Childrens portions, Childrens high chairs, Wheelchair access, Pre-theatre menu

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

Malmaison is a design-savvy hotel occupying a former church off Blythswood Square. There's a touch of the theatrical here, from the building's dramatic exterior to the brasserie's setting in the crypt. Diners loom among the nooks of the dark-panelled booths, while the lighting is understated with occasional illuminations of exuberant Prussian blue and ultramarine. The menus are decided for the most part by Malmaison head office, although head chef Donald McInnes does have some wiggle room. A 'home-grown and local' pre-theatre menu describes his sourcing policy from producers such as the Marrbury Smokehouse and Ramsay of Carluke, while beef from Ormsary Farm in Argyll also appears on the à la carte. Despite this, the salade gourmande is a disappointing assortment of cold meats lost among some unseasoned catering-pack rocket and watercress leaves. The Thai green curry sits rather uncomfortably on the resolutely brasserie-style menu, but its sunshine flavours of citrus, basil and coconut are a useful antidote to Glasgow's weather. Likewise, the cassoulet is pure Mediterranean: earthy, rootsy and as authentic as you're likely to find this far from Provence. The expensive wine list is encyclopaedic, while the breakfast and weekend brunch menus are packed with treats from pancakes to roasts.