Two Fat Ladies

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

The original Two Fat Ladies, housed and taking its name from 88 Dumbarton Road, has been serving excellent fish-focused food since 1989 (and has nothing to do with the eccentric lady chefs and their TV show, which didn’t come along until seven years later). It's changed hands a few times, and seen the expansion of its parent group, but Two Fats West End retains its simple ethos of serving excellent local produce - predominantly but not exclusively fish - in a relaxed, friendly atmosphere. Decorated in a naive-opulent style of gilt and silk, the dining room stretches behind the kitchen and away from the shop-front window. With no natural light at the back, it may seem cosy or claustrophobic, depending on your mood. Simply prepared shellfish come in starter or main helpings, while second courses on a changing menu typically include sea bass, lemon sole, a mixed fish platter and at least one chicken or beef option. Dishes are clever but not outlandish - a well-flavoured fillet of pollack with a parmesan herb crust, sitting on a bed of creamy mushroom risotto, is a fair example. Desserts are a strong point, service relaxed and friendly as befits such an intimate space, and prices (a little lower than the other two restaurants in the group) extraordinarily good value for this quality.

• High point: Great seafood in a warm, welcoming environment
• Low point: It can feel cramped, especially at the back